Fishing on the White
by Chapman Rose
As the sun started to set behind the mountains peek it painted a mural of purple, orange and yellow on the surrounding landscape. I caught the spectacle out of the comer of my eye as I sat hunched over my fly box on the streams edge, prodding its contents for a large gray mayfly imitation. It was a hopeless attempt however, for the native cutthroats have already mangled many of the large mayflies in my box leaving only the tattered reminders of previous struggles. I would have to settle for a size 18 Parachute Adams I thought to myself, it was always a good bet on the White and it had served me well in the past.
I tied on the small mayfly taking extra care to secure the knot onto the 5x tippet, knowing it could mean the difference between breaking off or landing the large trout that lie against the opposite bank. The big cutthroat had been routinely dimpling the waters film, inhaling the fat mayflies that floated over. It is one of the only ways to detect these fish in their natural habitat, through evolution these native cutthroats have become everything but invisible in the rocky mountain stream. Their dorsal colors matching the pattern of the rocky bottom to flawless precision.
I had been fishing all day with this in mind, stalking the holes, runs and deep cuts, trying to conceal my movements to the potential holding water where they might lay. My early attempts had paid off, leading to the catch and release of twenty or more cutthroat trout all in the 13-18 inch range. All beautifully rich fish whose feisty demeanor and orange blaze depict the native trout, these cutthroats are true wonders of evolution. The fish I was now focused on would hopefully best the previous natives, which had fought so honorably earlier in the day. The trout rose again making my hands tremble with excitement. He was big. I had only seen part of him on previous rises, but he revealed his massive body on his last rise. If only I could entice him to take the fly I had promised myself I would make it back to camp in time to sit down for a White River base camp hearty meal in good company; a winning combination of standards.
I drew my rod tip back sending the line in a fluid arc behind me, as the line straightened I brought the tip forward firing the line in a tight loop towards the opposite bank. The fly-line straightened a few feet from the shore a delicately dropped the fly in the upper riffles of the pocket-water. I bent down and pointed the rod tip at the drifting fly anticipating the take. It fluttered over the riffles drifting naturally towards the deep cut. A shadow slowly emerged from the bottom rising to the surface and taking the fly in one effortless motion. I reared back setting the hook and sending the native fish into an intense struggle for freedom.
The 20" native cutthroat would end up ripping the line off my reel four times before I finally hoisted him over to the stream's edge. He was over two and half pounds of iridescent orange, another trophy cutthroat from a pristine trout fishery I thought to myself as I bent down and held him loosely in the swift oxygen rich waters. It didn't take him long; soon he had caught his breath and was easing his way back to the Solitude of his humble limestone abode.
I watched the trout glide through the current back into its aqua green pool pleased to know it would be there to fight another day. Its respect I have for fish. Not stocked or altered in any way they are a triumph of God's creation, perfectly adapted to live in the solitude of these rocky mountain streams.
I lifted my head from the river just in time to catch the last glimpse of the setting suns artwork dancing off the mountain peeks, making a fitting ending to fun filled day. As I headed back to camp taking in the crisp wilderness air I couldn't think of another place I would rather be.
Base Camp Information
The camp is located 24 miles away from the nearest trail head making it an ideal location for fly-fishing the uncrowded trout waters of the White River. Only accessible by backpackers or horseback riders it offers a unique opportunity to enjoy the unspoiled beauty of the Bob Marshall Wilderness. The camp is rebuilt every summer and taken down every fall, making it one of the only permanent camps in the wilderness. It's location in the Bob offers great day rides to scenic vistas atop the surrounding mountain peeks.
The camp is on a pristine cutthroat fishery known as the White River, which flows just a hundred yards from the camp. The stream offers incredible dry-fly fishing in a great diversity of fishable water. The river channel changes from fast moving pocket to slow moving pools, deep cut banks and long runs. It is a stream suitable for the accomplished angler as well as the curious newcomer.
The White is a limestone river with easily accessible banks to fish from. However, the limestone makes the rocks very slippery and wading can be dangerous without the proper footgear. Naturally fed by alpine snow melt, the river is cold in nature and it is recommended that hip boots or chest waders be worn with added gripping power of felt soled boots. The frigid waters hold an incredible diversity of insect life creating the possibility of new hatches every night.
The unique fishing conditions provide excellent trout habitat for large cutthroat trout, the average fish being 14" and a trophy cutthroat being in a 20" range. Though endangered, the elusive bull trout cruise the deep pools as well, waiting for the spawning season to approach. Like sharks cruising the ocean, bull trout are extremely predacious fish, making the occasional encounter unavoidable. Known to attack even medium sized cutthroats it is not uncommon to see a 30" bull attacking a tired cutthroat.
The general benefits of the White River camp are directly related to its seclusion in the Flathead National Forest. Its distance from the nearest trail head makes it a full day’s ride on horseback with some hiking. So it is essential to have a good pair of hiking boots, and highly recommended that only people that are in moderately to good shape take the trip.
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